Red Truck Mendocino County Petite Sirah 2005
Chris Sherman of the St. Petersburg Times gives this a glowing review under the heading, “Uncorked: Petite sirah is small in name only.”
Petite sirah is not syrah or shiraz, although it is a direct descendant straight from the Rhone. Nor is it petite. Petite sirah is big, really big, from the juiciest of grapes, like a water balloon filled to bursting with grape and cherry jam.
It has spice and pepper, plenty of guts. So much that wine writers and fans, I plead guilty, have apologized for its frivolous name and introduced it as a John Wayne of wines. That makes it sound like too much of a tough guy when one of its trademarks is charm, even silky smoothness. Let’s recast with Clint Eastwood or Steve McQueen.
“It has intense tannins, deep color and a lot of acid, but is so well balanced with all this fruit, that it doesn’t comes out hot (with too much alcohol) or “furrish’ (with tannin),” explained Phil Regan, the winemaker at Foppiano. The Foppianos have bottled petite as a varietal for 30 years, and now have it in a third of their Healdsburg vineyards, which produce 10,000 to 20,000 cases a year.
Make its acquaintance now, because this petite sirah is bred for chilly evenings, thick pork chops, legs of lamb, beef stews, grilled sausage and stout cheeses. (Florida has plenty of months for salmon and pinot noir.)
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